Seeds – let the waiting begin
It must have been mid May, or early June but when I first saw Gloriosa superba in bloom I was stunned. While visiting Gardenworks on a delivery the mental seed was planted and within the week a gloriosa vine was in my possession. While the price tag was a bit larger then I’d like to admit, the specimen was incredible and it’s short visit was well appreciated. Bursting forth in early spring gloriosa is best grown in a greenhouse up north, by May and June it should be in full bloom and afterwords it dies to the ground. In climates warmer then Victoria, namely it’s homeland Africa/South Asia, Gloriosa vines are said to flower all year round. Here in Victoria it only gave one loud hurrah, still it’s a worthy plant for any tropical flower junkie.

Gloriosa vines prefer rich well draining soil and like full sun. Keep them consistently wet but not soaking, I have heard that a regular cause of gloriosa disaster is overwatering. While much of my garden was needing a drink daily, my gloriosa in an 10″ pot needed it only 1/3 of the time. To be safe, let it dry between waterings, it’s not a very thirsty plant. After blooming the vines will die and can be cut down to the ground, slowly decrease watering, and put your gloriosa pot aside for the season. If you were lucky one of your gloriosa will produce a seed pod, at which point it is safe to leave it on the vine until it matures late in the season. I just cut mine down today to harvest the orange corn like seeds.

Gloriosa aren’t reliably hardy in wet cold climates and should be dug up and stored for the winter. Store in dry peat for the winter, or bring in the whole pot and keep it in a warm dry spot. In spring pot up and gradually increase watering until you see some action. Be very careful of digging up your gloriosa tubers as they are A) poisonous and B) extremely fragile. Washing your hands after touching them and/or wearing gloves might be an idea. Late in the season Gloriosa roots are shallow at best and the safest way of removing them from the pot is by hand. Slowly digging your hands into the soil will have the best results for not breaking these strange V shaped tubers. If you’d like to double your stock feel free to break the V’s in two as long as you can see an active growing point (eye on the tuber). Dusting with sulfer (fungicide) will also increase your success.

Gloriosa seeds
Gloriosa are supposed to be quite easy to grow from seed, a 50/50 mix of peat and compost is recommended for best results. Soak seeds for 24 hours prior to sowing and place in a warm spot, planted seeds would benefit from being placed on a heating mat. Once seedlings are of a good size, move them out to their own pots. I have read that it can take up to three seasons to get a good flowering sized tuber. I will update you on my success.
In other plant related news, I have been busy all week moving plants indoors. The majority of the cacti have been brought in, a load or two to the greenhouse, and now the majority that are left are giants. Damn you Echium pinniana for being so large and grandiose, and also damn you for promising flowers on the second year but waiting til the third. Lastly damn you for being so cold sensative, and damn you for being so good looking. I have 20 days tops to find you a warm home, I need a truck! Loree @ Danger Garden, I feel your pain.

How to Germinate Tree Peony Seeds Successfully
A couple week’s ago the tree peony seeds I planted in mid March started to poke their heads up into the summer weather. For the most part the experiment seems like a success with pretty much a 90% healthy germination rate. Tree peony seeds have a double dormancy you have to break in order to get them to sprout properly. Peony trees rarely grow true to seed so these seedlings are bound to be something new.
A successful process for growing tree peonys from seed:
1. Collect fresh tree peony seeds from an establish plant. Seeds are most viable when fresh off the plant, I collected mine in mid November.
2. Place your dehusked peony tree seeds in a bag of wet vermilculite, and place it somewhere warm. Then forget about them.
3. In early March I looked inside the bag of vermilculite to find handfuls of sprouted seeds. (See the post earlier this season for more info)
4. Plant up into 2″ or 4″ pots with potting soil. Plant a more then 1 seed per pot if you’d like to increase your chances of success.
5. Keep moist, not drenched, and wait. Planted the sprouted seeds at the end of March, baby trees started to pop mid July. The seed’s second dormancy takes 3-4 months to poke their heads, maybe shorter if grown in a greenhouse.
6. Once seedlings are established, pot into bigger pots, 1 & 2 gallon should work just fine.
7. Wait 2-3 years as your peony matures, flowers only appear on established plants.





